Refashion Friday: Replace Boring Buttons!

Ok, so I'm not reinventing the wheel with the idea covered in this post, but I wanted to talk about the simplest way to reinvigorate a cardigan (or shirt or blouse). If you have such a garment that has fallen out of favour and wardrobe rotation, or you picked up something in a charity shop (just as I did recently, see garment below) and it feels a bit 'meh', changing the buttons for nicer ones can make it look and feel almost like a totally new item of clothing.

The tomato red cardigan that I scored in a charity shop last month was in many ways perfect: a lovely '50's shape, soft texture, warm and the perfect size for me. However the buttons were a strange off-orange tone that made the whole garment look really 'granny-ish' (close up below). 

I am lucky enough to have a sizeable stash of buttons, many of which I've harvested from garments that were heading to the recycling bank, and I sifted through to find a set that were appropriate in size, quantity and look. It may not surprise you to learn that I have quite a few sets of anchor buttons, but unfortunately they were all sets of six, and this cardi requires seven. In the end I decided on this cute red and white plastic set (pictured below) that have already had a former incarnation on at least one of my garments before this. I really like these buttons, probably because they remind me of sweets!  

Two great things about changing the buttons on a garment is that, A) it doesn't take very long, and B) you can do it again and again if you get bored quickly or find cuter sets of buttons later on than the set you originally plumbed for. One point to mention about sizing: if you find new buttons that are a little smaller than the ones you wish to replace, it's not a problem if you are prepared to spend a little extra time stitching the buttonholes together a little, thus reducing their capacity so the cardigan (or shirt or blouse) doesn't pop open with annoying frequency. However, if you find some fabulous new buttons you want to use that are bigger than the initial buttons, creating bigger holes may prove to be quite a headache and you risk fraying the buttonholes. That said, you could stitch the buttonholes closed completely, stitch the new bigger buttons on top of the former buttonholes, and apply poppers/press studs behind for a functional closure.  

Because I'm basically a button junky, and simply looking a pretty buttons can provide some sort of fix, I checked out the current stock at vintage button purveyor The Polished Button's Etsy shop, to see what kind of cardigan appropriate items they may have. My favourites right now are, the gold stud buttons pictured at the top of this post, the black and gold mod style buttons pictured above and the white oval buttons pictured below.

One final idea for replacing buttons even if you don't have an appropriate set in your stash and don't want to buy any especially is to create a cute mixed look like the cardigan pictured below. (Yes this is the third time I've used this Pinterest pin to illustrate a blog post in recent months. That is how enamoured I am by it.)

Source: uneviegeniale.blogspot.com via Zoe on Pinterest

Nautical Knot Dress

If anyone thought my love of nautical stylings may be on the wane, then think again! I would like to introduce you to my latest boating-based wardrobe addition: the Nautical Knot Dress! Boats. Knots. More boats. More knots... 

As I mentioned in my round up of 2012 post, for a couple of reasons, my sewing mojo all but disappeared at the tail end of last year. This is the only thing I made in 2012 after all my wedding hoopla was completed. It's taken a few months to find an opportunity to get some decent pictures, day light levels being as they are in Winter. 

Pattern:

The pattern I used was a vintage McCall's, number 6636, that's been in my stash for about a year. I scored it pretty cheaply from eBay after becoming intrigued by the interesting bust shaping and enchanted by the pattern envelope illustration. 

Pattern Sizing and Changes: 

It is a bust 34", which always seems the best starting point for me when it comes to vintage patterns. I would usually fold out 2 cms from the depth of the bodice to accommodate my short-waisteness (AKA naturally high waist) but something told me not to do that this time, and I'm glad I didn't because the waist seam sits just fine, a little high even, with no adjustment made. One change to the pattern I did make was to add 4 cms in total around the waist because vintage patterns can often be so unforgiving for a lady such as I who likes cake! However it's come out a bit too big around the waist, but at least I can go to lunch without feeling restricted (which I did today with the very lovely Kathryn and some of her equally lovely London laydeez). I also removed an enormous chunk off the length of the full skirt!

Fabric Choice:

So I've temporarily stopped pussying around with fabric featuring nautical style stripes and tiny anchors. Time to man up and stick some frikkin' boats on my body!!! And like I said a while back, curtaining can be an excellent source of garment sewing fabric, and I think I've proved that here! This fabric started life as a HUGE curtain my mum scored from a charity shop. I think she got it with half an eye to making some cushion covers for the cosy little interior of my dad's boat, but there is really only so many scatter cushions a small boat requires and I ended up with this fabric instead. Happy day! 

I'm not sure if you can see clearly enough in these pics, apols for a lack of close-ups, but the fabric design features line drawings AND water colours of yachts, plus some fancy rope work sketches AND some boaty stuff written in French. Damn. I made sure I positioned the front pattern piece so a rope work knot was in clear view. 

Did it look like the illustration on the pattern envelope when you were done?

Does it ever?! Umm, not entirely but then I never make a toile so I know it's therefore always slightly my fault. Even though it is against my natural inclination, I chose to make the full skirted version rather than the slim skirt version. This was for two reasons: the first being that I had so much damn fabric I may as well; and the second was that I just couldn't see that gathered-waist-into-a-slim-skirt effect going well. 

The main area of interest of this pattern is of course the crazy bust area with it's seaming and weird little bust darts. The seams actually go up into a point at the armpit area, which was really tricky to sew. I had a suspicion that the bust point of this pattern would be way higher than is natural for today's body shapes, but there was no way I was going to fanny around trying to lower it. Those suspicions were well founded as the bust darts are crazy-high. It might be a problem if I'd made this in a solid fabric, but the print hides it and I'm just not that bothered about a perfect fit on a dress that was kind of an experiment any how and I'll probably only wear a few times a year. 

Would I sew this pattern again?

No. I have too many untried patterns in my stash to spend a large chunk of time trying to perfect the fit of this pattern. It was a fun experiment and the result is a dress I'll definitely wear so it's all good. I would be tempted to therefore give the pattern away so someone else can fill their boots, but I love the envelope illustration so much I'm planning on framing it and putting it up with a few more favourites above my desk in my desk share space. I will, however, probably use the skirt pattern pieces again. Previously I'd only ever made full skirts from gathering up long rectangles. This skirt has such a lovely fullness to it, even if it does look a bit like a little girl's party dress!  

Oh yeah, I've just realised a lack of garment makery means a lack of self-photos so there hasn't been any photos of me on this blog taken since September. Maybes the fact that I've 'ombre'd' my hair may come of a shock to you. I can only apologise. And I promise the awkward side-fringe/growing-out effect is just a phase. 

Charity Shop Successes

Although the vast majority of my wardrobe is me-made, I do go hunting in charity shops for second hand gems to supplement my self-created wearables. When I visit charity shops (AKA thrift stores, op shops) I look for things that I can't make myself, in particular knitwear (especially fine knits that I'll never be able to recreate even if I learn to knit), footwear and some other manufactured things like belts and purses. It may sound mental, but I probably wouldn't ever by a second hand skirt or t-shirt, no matter how nice they were, because I can make those types of garments and I dislike wearing things I didn't make myself. However, when I'm in the charity shop, I do scout about for fabric, textiles (curtains, bedding, etc.) or garments that have remaking/refashioning potential. 

Seeing as I was pretty disdainful recently about the 'gentrification' or 'bland-ification' of lots of charity shops round my way, I felt I should balance things out a bit by sharing some major charity shop hauls I had recently. 

First up, I want to show you the scores I acquired when visiting York (in the North) over the Christmas break. I have to say that, from the few I went in anyway, most of them had the boring appearance of the  Southern ones I was previously moaning about, and they seemed to favour newish things in the same manner, but there seemed to be a bit more variety generally, and they were definitely cheaper. A cardigan in the British Heart Foundation in Brighton will set you back about £5. In the British Heart Foundation in York? £3.50. Perversely, the lower price tag meant I went mental and bought loads of stuff when usually I'd hold myself back and buy only one or two items. So, what did I buy?

Red 1950's style cardigan. This is super soft and my preferred shape of cardigan! The buttons need changing though, but I kind of like it more because I need to alter it in some way. 

Emerald cardigan/shrug. This was originally from a fairly pricey shop, which would usually mean the shop assistants would hike the price up, but in the shops in York the garment's brand didn't seem to effect the second hand price at all. This is a blend of all kinds of soft stuff like Angora. The kind of fibres I could never justify buying new. Not that I buy anything new. 

Big black cardigan. This is super soft and cosy and is going to keep me warm at my desk space, which can get mighty chilly. It's made by (or more specifically, for) one of those cheap supermarket brands which I'd normally steer clear of, but this is virtually unworn and not at all bobbley from laundering.  

Stripey Anchor jumper. Say what?! Yep that anchor is gold. Yep it now belongs to me. 

Snake print ballet flats. These look like they've been worn twice, tops. Not amazingly comfy just yet because they are synthetic, but I'm hoping I can break them in. Or they can break my feet in. Either way. 

Leather bow detail purse/wallet. This is just the kind of purse I've been looking for as it's got lots of those compartments for your bank cards and coffee shop loyalty cards inside. Plus it's brand new (there's a sales sticker from the previous shop still on the inside), my favourite colour, real leather, has a cute bow detail AND Patty offered to pay for it for me. Aww!

So all the above happened in York in just two shops within a space of about 20 mins. I was basically high afterwards! My faith in charity shops for still containing stuff I want at a price that doesn't almost match the original price when it was new has been restored. I'm just going to stop going in the ones in Brighton.

But that isn't everything I've scored of late. Here are some beauts I got when I was back visiting in the Motherland (Essex) before Christmas. I hooked up with charity shop deviant (yeah, she's that good!) Miss P and we blitzed Leigh on Sea, my old stomping ground. 

Navy cardigan with white scallop edging. This has definitely seen better days but it's a lovely shape, perfect colour for my wardrobe and I love the scallop detail so I'm hoping I can get whatever-I-paid-for-it's worth of wear before it properly dies. 

Mustard linen table cloth with white pattern. This is just big enough to hopefully squeeze a summer top out of. I think its slinky, drapey linen texture will best suit something tunicy and loose-ish fitting. I don't really wear things like that too much these days, but I'll make an exception for this lovely colour that will look ace with navy jeggings (that I haven't made yet) or denim sailor shorts (that I also haven't made yet).  So that's two potential outfits created by combining three garments, none of which currently exist!

1980's faux-leather navy and white clutch. Umm, how great is this?! I have a thing for perforated leather (or faux-leather in this case). Not sure how much use it'll see, but I can always re-donate it back to charity if it doesn't see the light of day much. 

The one that got away:

I know. In hindsight I fu&%ed up. 

How about you? Have you had any excellent charity shop/thift store/op shop scores recently?

Refashion Friday: My Tattoo Applique Sweatshirt Remakes

Yes, it's more remade sweatshirts. That's what I'm showing you today. You may well be bored of my mens-to-womens sweatshirt remakes by now, but I'm a massive fan of these two because they have been keeping me toasty since I made them last year and because they have a personal dimension to their design. 

Created in the same manner as the remade lace yoke sweatshirt remake, lace stripes sweatshirt and the moustache appliqué jumper, both of these original garments I started with were deconstructed, recut, and then had their details applied before being stitched back together. Unlike my previous remade sweatshirt projects, these both have long sleeves. I much prefer to wear either of these on chilly days than the 3/4 length, 1/2 length or short puff sleeve versions I've made. 

You never can tell beforehand, but thankfully both of these have stood up well to laundering and the leather appliqués look fine. I really enjoyed machine appliqué, having to be super careful to stitch close to the edges. Any unpicking will show up previous puncture holes, so you kind of only get one shot. 

Before stitching, I stuck the leather shapes down with prit stick (normally I'd use copydex but I'd run out and it's really expensive!). I used my normal sewing machine foot when stitching them down, but I did squirt a little sewing machine lubrication spray (don't ask me why I had access to that... randomly the one I used smells of lemons!) which helped the machine foot move over the leather rather than sticking to it. 

So, aside from extreme comfort and obvious cuteness, why are these swallow and anchor appliqué sweatshirts my favourites? Because both where inspired by my wrist tattoos!

Wendy's Pattern Stash: EU-only Giveaway!!!!

**PLEASE NOTE: THIS GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED. THANKS FOR ENTERING**

Before Christmas a lovely lady and reader of my blog Wendy contacted me with a bit of a dilemma, here's what she wrote:

'Today I've been rethinking my future sewing plans and have cleared out my small pattern stash. I have 13 patterns (most used, some not) that I know I will never use, they are all women's clothing. Sadly here in Luxembourg we have no charity shops to which I can donate them and I have no sewing community either. Being a follower of your blog I know that you are involved in the sewing community in Brighton and give classes etc. I wonder if you, your students or your favourite charity shop could use these patterns.'

After some emailing back and forth, we agreed that the best way for all these lovely patterns to reach a new owner who would really want to use them would be to hold a giveaway. Wendy has no blog of her own (yet!) so we agreed to host the giveaway here on my blog, and she will very kindly post the patterns to one winner who lives anywhere in the EU completely free of charge! Damn, there's a very lucky potential winner out there right now...

Here's what's on offer and what condition they are in:

New look 6945  8-18 uncut
Colette Clover 0-18 cut to size 18
Burda 8361 6-18 cut to size 18
New Look 6104 10-22 cut to 16/18
Vogue 8634 Lrg/XL  cut
New Look 6885 8-18 view E cut to 16/18
Vogue 7837 L/XL uncut
Simplicity 2508 14-22 some pieces cut to 16/18
Burda Style 7239 10-20 cut to 18
New Look 6669 8-18 skirt cut to 18
Style Arc Samantha 16 cut
New Look 6937 10-22 view E cut 16/18
McCalls 4769 12-18 uncut

The cut patterns will still be intact and usable for sizes smaller she cut. Look the numbers up on Pattern Review if you would like to know more about each style.

As mentioned above, all these patterns will be re-homed to one single lucky recipient. To enter, let Wendy and I know why you'd like to receive these patterns in the comment section below. If I can't access your email address within two clicks of the mouse, please include it in your entry comment. Email addresses will not be used for anything other than to contact you if you are the winner of this giveaway. This giveaway is open to residents of EU countries only and the winner will receive all the sewing patterns completely free of charge. The giveaway entry period will close at midnight GMT Sunday 20th January 2013 and the winner will be chosen and contacted by Wednesday 23rd January. Good luck, my pattern-loving friends!

Refashion with 'So, Zo': Rework Your Wardrobe Session

I'm pretty sure the vast majority of the people reading post this will not be interested in taking this class, because you probably already have mad-skillz in this area. But nevertheless, I want to share with you my new Rework Your Wardrobe session/class which will take place in Brighton on Sunday 3rd February because, A) you may know someone who it would appeal to, and B) some peops have expressed an interest in hearing about my self-employed shenanigans and this class is part of that. 

This Rework your Wardrobe session encourages attendees to bring their unloved, unworn, broken or ill-fitting clothes to the session and learn skills and techniques that will bring them back into wardrobe rotation!

The beginning of the New Year can often feel frustrating and miserable. You've spent far too much money over the festive period, plus if you're in the Northern Hemisphere you've got months of grey and chilly weather ahead until Spring shows it's face. You would really like some new clothes in your wardrobe for an injection of new style for the new year, but financially it's just not happening! This session, however, could help you rework and refresh things you already have to bring some much needed fun into your clothing selection. 

Reworking your existing clothes, rather than chucking them away and buying new things, saves you money and has a much smaller environmental impact. Plus, this session can teach new sewing skills and approaches that can be used again and again in the future. We can also rescue charity shop and vintage finds! 

The Rework Your Wardrobe session is simple: you just need to bring a bag full of garments to fix, fit or rework, we provide all the equipment you will need. However, if your garment had a broken zip, you will need to bring a replacement that I can help you insert.

We will start the session by taking a look at what everyone has brought and having a brief chat about each garment to establish what needs to be done to bring them back to life.

I will then assist you to fix/fit//rework as many garments as possible within the session. 

The skills, techniques and approaches you will learn will obviously depend on what your garments require, but they may include:

• Hemming trousers and skirts
• Fixing rips, tears and holes
• Reshaping for a more flattering fit
• Inserting a new zip
• Shortening hems or sleeves for a new look
• Plus many others!

All skill levels are welcome. Previous sewing machine experience is helpful but not essential. 

This session takes place at Super+Super HQ, in Central Brighton, UK. It runs from 10.30 to 13.30 on Sunday 3rd February 2013 and costs £26. If you have any questions and require more specific information, please feel free to email me at: sozoblog (at) gmail (dot) com.

If you would like to book a ticket to attend, you can do so very easily below. If you know anyone who this session may appeal to, please send them the link! Thanks lovely peops.

Online Ticketing for Rework Your Wardrobe powered by Eventbrite

Refashion Friday: Mittens from Refashioned Mittens

I'm starting the New Year with a Refashion Friday post that is about a refashion of a refashion. Or a remake of a remake if you prefer.  And you can't get much more recycled than that! 

Maybes you recall I got on the mitten-making tip last Winter, during which time I made myself some fabulous double-thickness leopard print mittens from old, unwanted knitwear. They were in almost constant use during the cold periods from then until now, and were literally the only way I could keep my chilly hands warm whilst outside. Well, as you can see from the pictured above, their intense usage took its toll: the finger tip areas have become super-thin with the lining popping through a hole in one thumb, and another hole appearing along the seam of the palm of the other hand.

I love the leopard print, and knew that I no longer have any pieces of knitwear quite as 'me', plus I'm out of cashmere, which I use to line them. Some salvaging was going to have to occur to create myself a new pair, and of course why chuck something out completely if it still has some life left in it? I unpicked them and retained the back panels which are still in good shape and hole-free and the linings, which are still soft and pleasingly moulded to the shape of my hands. 

I cut the new palm pieces from the old leopard print back pieces, and cut the other two new outer pieces  from a moth-eaten ruby-red jumper donated to me by a friend. Before cutting up the red wool jumper, I chucked it in the wash when I was doing a red load so that it would matt up a little and therefore be more durable and wind-resistant. The cuffs are created from the cuff ribbing of the original jumper. 

I reused my former mitten's purple linings, which creates a weird sensation: when worn, the new mittens feel exactly the same as my previous pair, but when I look down they look different! I wonder if I can pull this trick again next year; if the linings will still re usable and if I can cut the palm pieces from the red back pieces and find something new and contrasty to form the rest of them.