Refashion Friday Inspiration: Patchwork Back Button Shirt/ Blouse

Hello!!! I'm back! Massive thanks to the three super-talented bloggers who shared such awesome posts on this blog and generally kept my seat warm whilst I was away getting married and honeymooning. They did such an ace job, and in truth I'm a little intimidated to get back in the driving seat!

Now, I'm imagining that you'd probably rather be checking out pictures of my wedding dress and hearing about whether or not I bought half the fabric in NYC's garment district! My apologies but I require a little more of your patience, I promise I will start sharing those things from Monday, starting with the all-important wedding dress post. In the meantime, I'm going to get back on the blogging track with my regular feature: Refashion Friday.

So, please set aside thoughts of special glamourous dresses if that what you stopped by for, and instead take a look a these patchwork effect shirt/blouse remakes. They may look a bit crazy, but making something a bit crazy out of arguably the most boring type of garment out there (mens office shirts) fills me with glee! For these garments I used a really basic blouse pattern as a basis and cut up several unwanted mens shirts from which to cut out the various pieces. 

I cut the front of the blouses from the back of the original shirts by placing the centre front of the pattern on the fold, and similarly cut the back of the blouses from the front of the shirts incorporating the buttons and button plackets so the final garments buttoned up at the back. The original shirt hems were also included to skip the need to hem the final garment. 

The sleeves are 1940's style puff sleeves with a wide sleeve band. The overall fit of the blouses is fitted with waist shaping darts on the front and back, and that combined with the puffy sleeves and self-drafted Peter Pan collar produce an overall very feminine silhouette and feel which contrasts nicely with the traditional, male-centric origin of the fabric. If you ever checked out any of my previous shirt/blouse refashions, you'll know that I like playing with these gender contrasts when refashioning garments. 

I love the idea of wearing a garment like this to a job that requires you wear smart attire. It could be seen as a cheeky nod to formal working environment, plus you'd be sticking to the dress code rules whilst also bringing refashioning, sustainable clothing, creativity and 'hand-crafted' to the type of working situations that are rarely associated with those things. 

Normal service will be resumed shortly...

Guess what peops? She's baaaack! Yes, that's right. The lovely Zoe is back in old Blighty and normal service will be resumed here at So Zo very shortly. However, while Zoe is sleeping off her jet lag, she has very kindly allowed me to hijack her blog once again, (she's a diamond that Zoe!) to make a very short announcement....

Those of you that read my blog already, will be aware that I have been having some conversations with a TV production company. Namely about the possibility of addressing the lack of sewing related programming in our TV schedules, here in the UK. Well those discussions look set to go up a gear in the next week or two. In preparation, I have been busy gathering feedback from my readers as to their views on this subject, and what they would like to see included, if there were to be such a show on British TV. The feedback so far has been brilliant and every comment left, provides me with a little more ammunition to hit those TV execs with. So if you haven't already done so, please do pop over to this post on my blog, and take the opportunity to add your voice to "the call"; for some programming that finally caters for the likes of you and I. The humble sewists of the nation! Maybe, just maybe, we can make this happen!

Welcome back Zoe, and thankyou for letting me hijack your readers for a moment!

Guest Post: Kathryn... Considering Massive Collars

Today's post is by Kathryn from 'Yes I  Like That', a London-based blogger and one of the nicest and funniest ladies out there in blogland.

When Zoe asked me to do a guest post for her blog, a topic immediately came to mind. It's a very important topic which I think has been overlooked by the sewing world, and I hope you'll enjoy this serious exploration of it's possibilities. But what is this topic, I hear you ask?

MASSIVE GREAT BIG COLLARS

Now I know that there's a fair amount of peter pan collar exploration going on around sewing blogs, but I feel that there are still boundaries to be pushed. What really sparked my interest was a pattern I received at the Brighton Sewing Swap, earlier this year.

This pattern fascinated me. The collar is so big that it overlaps the shoulder seams to rest delicately on the top of the arm.

Simplicity 8664 led me to do some research into huge collars through the ages. Apparently a design feature like this is known as a 'pilgrim' collar, which seems to stem from American fancy dress costumes like these ones. (Incidentally, if you are interested in collar research, I recommend this amazing Wikipedia page which has an exhaustive list of every kind of collar known to man.) The pilgrims came to American in 1620, which was around the time that ruffs were being replaced by enormous lace collars for both men and women. You can see that in this famous portrait of The Laughing Cavaliar by Frans Hals.

You might think collars like this are sort of ridiculous, and I admit that they are, but there's a strange beauty to their exaggeratedness as well. I loved the delicate lacy white collars in the Louis Vuitton SS12 show, which totally reminded me of dolls clothing.

Pilgrim collars were big in the 1950s as well (in both senses). Here's an example, McCalls 8204. How fabulous are the hip pockets on this pattern?

Of course the 1960s are the natural habitat of the exaggerated Peter Pan collar. Here's a beautiful deadstock example from Etsy, which also features lace trim and matching white cuffs. It looks like something Wes Anderson might have put in the costumes for Moonrise Kingdom.

In the 70s, things started to a go a bit wrong. Not content with making flat collars bigger, pattern makers went a bit experimental and decided to grotesquely enlarge the shirt collar, which resulted in things like this:

This large collar is also from the 1970s, and it looks dangerously sharp. Although I have to confess I rather like the trousers on this pattern. That fabric is amazing.

In the 1980s the big collar hit hard times, and was forced to debase itself by appearing in patterns like this. Actually the dress on the far left isn't too bad, apart from being a bit sack-like, but things just get worse and worse going to the right.

In conclusion, I reckon the massive collar is ripe for sewing rehabilitation. I quite like the idea of sewing one in a very light lace so you can see the dress fabric underneath, or doing a double collar in two different fabrics. There's something fascinating about exaggerating the shape and size of a feature like this.

What do you think? Would you ever sew a shoulder-skimming collar?

Guest Post: Portia....Ideas for Conquering Winter Layering

Hellooooo to those that know me! To those that don't, my name is Portia and I blog over at Miss P. I'm a big fan of Zoe's so was super flattered to be asked to contribute a guest post whilst she's off in NYC being all romantic and newlywed! (Congratulations to the new Mr & Mrs So Zo ;)
So, while they're off being all lovey dovey Stateside, we here in Blighty have been experiencing a rather pleasant early Autumn. But with the days getting undeniably chillier, Like most, I've been giving my Winter wardrobe some thought. 

Now, I had a couple of problems.

1) I'm a big fan of layering, but not a big fan of the bulk that this can add. I like the contrast of different fabrics layered one on top the other, but not the way that shirt sleeves bunch up uncomfortably under the arms when I wear a cardigan over the top.

2) Add to that the fact that I had this vintage blouse that I loved but was 2 sizes to small for me. (The button plackets wouldn't even meet let alone do up!)

So how is it  that I am managing to wear said vintage blouse, layered with a cardigan without a bunched up underarm bulge in sight?

This is the vintage blouse in question. Cute huh? Pity it doesn't even come close to fitting me AND puff sleeves don't suit me at all. The key bits I love about this blouse are the cute embroidery on the placket, the shape of the neckline (and the cute button) and the horizontal pleats at the bust. So I devised a refashion that allowed me to keep those elements, adjust it to fit me and use it as a basic for layering under my multitude of cardigans. (I do love a cardi!)

Very quick and simple this. My favourite kind of refashion! . I simply cut the sides of the shirt off so I was left with a kind of bib. Then I finished the raw edges with bias tape from my stash....

Using the fabric I removed from the sides I made two wide straps and sewed them on to join the front and back of the shirt at the sides. So the finished arrangement is rather like a tabbard apron.....

Add a cardigan, et voila! I must admit, at first it felt a bit odd putting this on. ( I kept one button of my cardigan buttoned up btw, for security purposes!) It doesn't really resemble any conventional garment I suppose, and it's probably one of my more "off the wall" refashions! What would you call it? A "layering accessory"? But I soon got used to it, and it was great to layer up without all that twisting and bunching that occurs with sleeves. Didn't flash a bit of flesh all day, didn't get too hot, and no-one was any the wiser as to what I was hiding under my cardi!

This particular refashion is designed to wear with a cardigan, really because it's what the decorative panel at the front dictated. But it's kind of a spin off of my original idea. I was on the lookout for the perfect white shirt to create a collar accessory that I could slip under my jumpers/sweaters to achieve that layered look without the bulk. A bit like this combo from Modcloth. Because a jumper is not open down the front, I'm picturing a much shorter simple bib shape that would literally just tuck under the neckline.

So in summary, here are my top tips for for refashioning your way to winter layering with shirts, but without the bulk:

1) If the shirt fits, just remove the sleeves. That way you can avoid bulk under a cardigan/sweater AND wear your shirt in the summer too.
2) If you have a shirt that is too small but you still want to layer it, then this refashion could be an option for you. It solves the fitting AND bulk problems in one go.
3) If like me you like the layered look but tend to get a bit hot with too many layers; grab yourself a shirt with a cute collar and make yourself a little collar accessory that you can tuck into your jumpers/sweaters

I'm still on the lookout for just the right little white shirt with a peter pan collar!

Guest Post: Winnie... Adventures in Refashioning Much-Loveds

Hello everyone, I’m Winnie and I blog over at scruffybadgertime. I am so pleased to be able to guest here at Zoe’s awesome blog, thank you Zoe for inviting me & huge congratulations & the warmest of wonders in your married life together with Pat.

So, when Zoe asked me I felt I wanted to blog about something that would do her proud & show what an impact her blogging & inspiring refashioning & style has had on me. However, to be truthful I don’t do lots of refashioning/ repurposing, starting most of my sewing from scratch. I do have a mountain of intentions though! So I’m taking Zoe’s path & trying some for myself but developing it for an area that maybe I’m not the only one to struggle over.

I think many of us find it hard to part with some of our old favourites when it comes to donating to charity, even if our old favourites no longer fit us or have “had their day”. But how many of us find it easy to put things we’ve made into charity shops/ thrift stores? I know I struggle & it’s not because I think my lazy stitching & poor seam finishes will get found out! – I can cope with that. Am I sentimental to find it a challenge to give up a piece of clothing that meant something to me as I chose the pattern, looked up the yardage & carefully selected “the right” fabric? We all pour love, attention & many hours (even days) into some of our makes, but what do you do with them when you no longer wear them?

Or come to think of it, other handmade items, maybe made for you by someone you love,  that you totally recognise the skill, time & love poured into every minute dedicated to making it, but for some reason can’t bring yourself to throw away or pass on to charity.  Or something for which the fabric is right right right, but the make is wrong wrong wrong.  Instead it sits in your wardrobe or in a cupboard, passed over for some reason.  Maybe it is because it is just too “1980s darling” even for the recent 80s revival.  

Maybe you’ve changed weight/shape.  Maybe you were proud of it when you made it but through practice your skill level is oh so much better now & you always pass it over in favour of something that you feel better reflects your current standard of making?  Or let’s face it, tastes change & it is no longer flavour of the month….

It seemed appropriate to have a think about this conundrum because I guess that I might not be the only one who faces this challenge.  Yep, I have things in my cupboard & wardrobe that I made yet don’t wear (except maybe for me made months just to ring the changes a bit).  This being Zoe’s blog, queen of refashioning & repurposing, it felt like something to ponder & spring into action with some ideas.   

So, I have taken the three items above & given them a new lease of life.  Many of you are experts in refashioning, but being one who practises this infrequently, this has stretched me in new charming ways....

Easiest to tackle for a newbie, a dress in swoon-inducing fabric but being a good 10+ years old is far too short & has no hem left to let down (it must have been quite a short original style!)

I remember choosing this fabric & being totally head over heels in love with it.  It's got such a great drape & the colours!!  Zing! However, I suppose it could be worn as a tunic with leggings, but I don't do this much.  The dress still fits like a dream, so I don’t need to make any alterations.  All I did was to cut off a chunk from the bottom & re-hem at a hip length.  The back zip is still operational & I know I will get exponentially more use out of this in its new guise.

Second up, a dress with cute fabric but even though it fits, it’s just not doing it for me.  With the full skirt I know I can remake it into something by unpicking it & harvesting the zip.  I’ve taken my current fave, Simplicity 2154 & made it preppy.  I didn’t have enough fabric for anything more than the bodice, but that’s OK, I just found an old cotton sheet to use for the collar & bow.  Facings in this pattern are made from bias strips, or in this instance just some bias binding I already had.  

 

Another success, which I can imagine wearing both at work & dressed down with black jeans.  But what about the original dress’s bodice?  Not being one to waste it, I had an idea.  How about something practical?  I sewed up the centre back seam. Made the bodice & lining into a bag & sewed up most of the armholes to create ....

A peg bag!  Having a clothes hanger on hand I was able to work out the gap needed to secure it & sewed away.  To make the most of such a practical everyday item embellishment was in order with a lace collar & some buttons.  What do you think?

And last but by no means least.  That jumper.  It’s a classic 80s body-engulfing but exceedingly warm number.  It’s huge. It was knitted by Mum & it would have taken ages – I think the intricate knitting is what’s described as entrelac.  Do you understand that neither she nor I feel the urge to wear it now?  So with agreement by its creator and a spell under my overlocker later it is now rather a kooky cushion for my lounge...

You can see some velvet ribbon I used to tie up the edges just so that it is potentially removable.  I had trepidations about cutting through a hand knitted jumper – how quickly would it unravel?  Would it sew strong & straight?  Hopefully I can reassure you that it was easy – I literally secured the stitching line with pins (but you could always baste if worried) & stuck it under my overlocker.  The seams appear to be robust & are taking the strain of a cushion (& the cat sitting on it).  

What about the sleeves? A bit of chopping, reattaching a hem here & there & re-seaming later I have ...

What used to be called legwarmers in the 80s.

But now I think are referred to as boot toppers just to rid of that Flashdance/ Kids from Fame legacy.  Cosy!

Thank you Zoe for asking me over as I probably would have taken so much longer to get around to starting any of these - & the best bit?  I know I love them all & will get plenty of wear from them, even more so because they are much-loveds.

Wedding-Interupted Broadcasting

This is a scheduled post that I wrote a few days in advance. That is because today I am busy getting married and celebrating!!!! Crazy times. A couple of days after the wedding we are due to go on our honeymoon to NYC. So many exciting things happening at once...

So, in regards to this blog, what kind of impact will all this have? Well whilst it'll be radio-silence from me for a week or so, I have three wonderful sewing bloggers lined up to provide guest posts to entertain you in my absence. I've already been privy to their posts, and let me tell you that you are in for some inspirational awesomeness! 

Upon my return I promise to share photos of the wedding, in particular my self-stitched wedding dress, my best friend's bridesmaid dress and Patty's waistcoat. I also want to show you my mum's incredible dress that she made herself that was inspired by sewing-blogland. Plus, I'll let you know how I faired on the bountiful fabric-and-notions-laden streets of NYC!

See you on the other side my friends.

Zoe xxx

Refashion Friday Inspiration: Leather Applique Sweat Skirt

This refashion is certainly an acquired taste! I'm not sure even I would wear an anchor this huge. Oh wait, yeah I probably would. Anyways, what I really want to get across with this refashion/remake/upcycle is that old unwanted mens sweatshirts don't have to be remade into sweatshirt tops, they can also be sweat skirts! It's such a quick project that you could whip one up in a very limited window of sewing opportunity, all you need is a sweatshirt, thread and wide elastic. 

Cut the arms off the unwanted sweatshirt and then cut along the shoulders so you can pull the remaining tube on. You can then get an idea for how long you want to make the final skirt. You will also see how much you'll need to take in from the side seams and with what kind of shaping to get a nice fit. I used an overlocker/serger to restitch the sides and to neaten the top raw edge, but sweatshirting doesn't really fray so you can use a normal sewing machine, no bother. 

Although you'd probably want to taper the top of the skirt in slightly at the side seams, most of the waist fitting comes from the gathered, elasticated waist. I used some nice and chunky elastic for the waistband, which I feel is more appropriate for this sporty style garment. I made a very simple casing by turning over the top edge to the depth of the elastic and stitching it down with a normal straight stitch. As you can see, I can never leave well alone so added a leather anchor appliqué. But if you left it as a plain garment it would be a very versatile skirt. This type of refashion also works fabulously with plain or patterned knitted jumpers. Cosy skirts ahoy!